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Potato Growing Guide

If you love potatoes and have yet to taste a homegrown potato, you should try them! Potatoes are easy to plant and grow fast; digging them up is fun. Homegrown potatoes have a unique flavor and texture that store-bought potatoes can't match. They're not just delicious; they're also packed with essential nutrients. The best part is you don't need a garden – many potatoes can grow in large bags or pots on a patio or balcony. Plus, you can enjoy tasty homemade fries, mashed potatoes, or potato salad whenever!

Where do you start? No worries! Our potato growing guide will help you with everything from choosing the right potato varieties to the joy of harvesting and storing your spuds. So, without any further ado, let's get started!

About Potatoes

Potatoes, scientifically known as Solanum tuberosum, belong to the nightshade family, which includes peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants. The Incas of Peru were the first to talk about them, and they came to the American Colonies in 1621. Today, potatoes are the number one veggie in the U.S.

Potatoes prefer cooler weather and grow well in the northern part of the U.S. But surprisingly, they can also be grown in warmer areas as a winter crop. The tasty part of the potato is the underground tuber. This tuber forms from underground stems called stolon’s when the plants are about 6 to 8 inches tall.

They are a low-fat and cholesterol-free source of carbohydrates. The skin alone gives you 45% of your daily vitamin C and 18% potassium, plus other healthy stuff.

There are more than 100 types of potatoes, with different flesh colors, skin colors, and sizes, from big ones to fingerlings. Some are great for roasting or mashing, while others are perfect for boiling.

Types of Potatoes

There are three types of potatoes based on when to plant them and when to harvest them.

  • Early-season potatoes (First Earlies): are planted in early spring. They grow fast, taking about 60 to 80 days to be ready by early summer. They have thinner skin and tender flesh and can be stored for a few weeks. Examples include Irish Cobbler, Purple Majesty, Red Norland, and Mountain Rose.
  • Mid-season potatoes (Second Earlies): These take about 80 to 100 days to mature and are usually ready in the second half of summer. You can store them for about a month. E.g., Yukon Gold, Redd Pontiac, Chieftain, Austrian Crescent, and Viking.
  • Late-season crops: These mature in 100 to 130 days. They're great for storing and can last 2 to 3 months in the right conditions. Plant them in August and harvest in the fall. E.g., Katahdin, German Butterball, French Fingerling, and Elba.

You can grow different types of potatoes based on their flavor and texture.

  • Mealy Potatoes (like Russets): These are great for baking, mashing, and frying. When you mash them, they don't get sticky and absorb flavors well. But they might not hold up in potato salads and soups.
  • Waxy Potatoes (like Purple Peruvian): Perfect for curries, frittatas, soups, and salads. They stay together when cooked. You can even pan-fry leftover boiled ones without them falling apart. Be careful, though – mashing them can make them a bit sticky.
  • All-Purpose Potatoes (like Yukon Gold): These fall in between. They have a good balance of mealy and waxy starches, making them versatile for various dishes.

Spacing and Soil Needs of Potatoes

Potatoes can grow in different soils, but the best is sandy loam or loose, well-drained soil full of nutrients. If you have sandy soil, you should water your plants more often to keep them moist enough. The potatoes might turn out oddly shaped if the soil doesn't drain well and has a lot of clay and silt.

The soil should be slightly acidic, with a pH between 5.8 and 6.5. If the soil is too alkaline, it might lead to a common disease called scab, which affects the tubers. Also, ensure the soil temperature is at least 7° to 13°C. To make your soil better, you can add manure or compost which will provide nutrients to help your potatoes grow well.

When planting potatoes, make adequate spacing between plants to promote proper growth and airflow. Planting in hills or rows is common, with about 12-15 inches spacing between plants and 2-3 feet between rows. Don't grow potatoes in the same spot for 3-4 years – this helps keep the soil healthy for your plants.

When to Plant Potatoes

The best time to plant potatoes depends on your climate. Plant your garden potatoes about 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. The soil must be warm, around 55°F during the day and 45°F at night. But don't rely too much on the calendar – look at the soil. If it's too wet and sticks together, it's hard to work with. Let it dry a bit before planting. If your spring is late and wet, you plant around April (depending on where you are) or even until June, especially if you use containers.

If you're in colder regions, you can plant potatoes around early to mid-April, about 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Most potatoes can handle a bit of cold. But be careful, they don't like freezing temperatures. You can plant potatoes as a winter crop if you live in warmer areas with mild winters. You can grow them in these regions anytime from September to February, depending on your region. So, the right time to plant depends on your local weather.

Equipment Required for Potato Planting

To grow potatoes, you'll need:

How to Plant Potatoes

Choosing Seed Potatoes

Potatoes seeds purchased from the grocery store might not be the best choice for planting in your garden because they could have been treated with chemicals to prevent sprouting. Ensure your seed potatoes are certified (disease-resistant) and have eyes (buds) sticking out. You can buy from seed companies or nurseries. Use fresh seed potatoes because they produce higher yields, are less likely to get sick, and offer a greater variety of potato types than those from the grocery store.

Preparing Potatoes for Planting (Chitting)

When you buy your seed potatoes, they might not have sprouts. Place them in a sunny spot with temperatures between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit for about a week or two before planting to encourage sprouting.

Place the seed potatoes in seed trays or egg boxes with the buds facing upward, and keep them in a bright, frost-free place for a few weeks until the sprouts reach a length of 5cm (2 inches) in six weeks. This process is known as 'chitting.' Although it is not necessary, chitting is believed to increase yields and is mainly used to save a few weeks in the growing time for early potatoes.

After a month of chitting, the potatoes should develop short, green sprouts. Your potatoes will still grow well if you don't have time or space to chit, but harvesting time may increase.

Use a clean, sharp knife to cut the larger seed potatoes into smaller pieces a day or two before planting them. Each piece should be about 2 inches square and have at least 1 or 2 eyes or buds. If the potatoes are smaller than a ball, you can plant them whole. In a day or so, the sliced pieces will form a thick covering that will protect them from rotting.

Spread compost outside about 1 inch deep on the planting area. Potatoes need a lot of nutrients, and this extra food will help them grow well.

Planting in the Ground

Potatoes are planted by digging a trench for planting 6 to 8 inches deep and as wide as your shovel. Make sure to keep each row of trenches at least three feet apart. After digging the trench, mix in compost or manure to make the soil better for your potatoes to thrive.

Once you've added these ingredients to the trench, place a seed potato in it, keeping them 12 inches apart. If you use potato slices, place them with the cut side down and cover them with four inches of soil. If you're planting early types, space the potatoes about 16 inches apart in both directions. For maincrop potatoes, give them a bit more space, around 18 inches apart.

When you see sprouts (which usually takes about two weeks), fill the trench with more soil. Leave only the tiny tip of the sprout exposed to the sun. Repeat this process as the sprouts grow until you have used up all the soil. Adding more soil on top of the seed potatoes means a bigger harvest, so feel free to create a large mound.

Planting in the Containers

If you don't have enough space in the ground, you can grow potatoes in huge containers or specially-made potato sacks. Start by filling the bottom of your container or sack with around 4 inches (10 cm) of planting mix. Place one or two potatoes on top, then cover them. As the foliage grows, add more planting mix to mound it until the soil reaches the top. This technique will make the foliage flourish and grow.

Hilling Potatoes

Hilling is an important farming practice for growing better potatoes. It helps increase the amount and quality of the potatoes you harvest. Once your potato plants reach a length of about 6 to 8 inches, start mounding the soil around them. Burying potatoes deeper in the soil enhances their flavor and prevents them from being exposed to sunlight. If tubers are exposed to sunlight for too long, they can turn green and taste bitter due to a substance called solanine.

Mound the soil and compost around the plant to protect your potatoes from sunlight. Leave only the top 4 inches (10 cm) exposed. You can use a spade to pile soil around the base of each potato plant. Be careful not to harm any tubers that are already growing underneath. Keep hilling until the plant blooms and the aboveground section of the plant is at least an inch tall.

Watering Potatoes

Watering your potatoes is essential for a successful harvest! Potatoes have lush, leafy plants, and their tubers need lots of water to swell. In dry conditions, make sure to water thoroughly. Keep the moisture level consistent, especially after the flowers bloom. Potatoes generally need about 1 to 2 inches of water each week.

If the soil goes from dry to wet and back again due to inconsistent watering amounts, it can cause problems for your potatoes. They might have internal spotting, hollow hearts, or growth cracks. Too much water right after planting or too little when they're growing can make the potatoes look weird and affect their quantity and quality. If you notice the leaves wilting, that is a sign to stop watering.

Consider setting up a drip irrigation system to provide a steady and efficient water supply. Drip irrigation minimizes water waste and keeps foliage dry, reducing the risk of fungal diseases; for row crops, use high-flow drip tape for equal water distribution. If growing in containers, a 1 GPH Pot Dripper will provide the pot with constant watering.

Fertilization Needs and Type of Fertilizers

For the best growth of your potatoes, use a fertilizer high in phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) and less in nitrogen (N). A good fertilizer ratio is 5-10-10 NPK, or something similar with twice the amounts of P and K compared to N. Potatoes need phosphorus and potassium to grow large, healthy tubers. Too much nitrogen will make the plant produce too many leaves, which is not suitable for a root crop. Furthermore, excess nitrogen can make the plants more prone to diseases like late blight.

To apply slow-release granular fertilizers, dig shallow ditches (side-dressing) next to your potato plants, spread the fertilizer, and then cover it with soil. If you use water-soluble, fast-release fertilizers, be careful not to soak the leaves. You can also feed your crops organically with seaweed, wood ash, bone, or chicken manure. Use the EZ-FLO injectors with a water-soluble fertilizer to fertilize your drip irrigation system.

When and How to Harvest Potatoes

Potatoes are usually ready for harvest when the plants' foliage turns yellow and begins to die back. To store potatoes for a longer time, wait to dig them up until two to three weeks after the leaves have died back. Choose a dry day for harvesting. Use a strong garden fork or spade to dig up the potatoes. After harvesting, let the potatoes stay on the garden soil for two to three days. This helps in the curing process, allowing the potatoes to last longer in storage.

If rainy weather is expected, you can also cure the potatoes in a sheltered place like a garage or covered porch. For the curing period, keep the potatoes in a dry, dark, and cold place (45 to 60°F) for up to two weeks.

How to Store Potatoes

To keep potatoes fresh for a long time, make sure they have good airflow, cold surroundings, high humidity, and are kept in the dark. Store them in a cool place, ideally between 30°F to 45°F. Warmer temperatures can lead to sprouting and disease. Usually, an unheated garage or basement is a good place. Still, if you live in a warm area, you can use an additional refrigerator with a slightly higher-than-usual temperature for storing potatoes. Make sure good ventilation by using mesh bags or containers with holes but avoid airtight containers to prevent mold.

Life Cycle of the Potatoes

Growing potatoes usually takes between 90 and 120 days for most types. Early-season varieties take about 60–80 days, mid-season varieties take 80–100 days, and late-season varieties take 100–130 days. Potatoes go through several stages, including sprouting from seed potatoes, developing foliage, flowering, and finally, reaching maturity for harvest. Observing and managing each stage will contribute to a bountiful potato harvest.

Common Pests and Diseases

Growing potatoes is easy, but there are some common problems you might face:

  • Aphids: These small insects cause leaves to look weird or yellow. They leave a sticky substance on plants, and black mold may grow. To control them, plant companion plants, spray insecticidal soap to knock them off, or put orange or banana peels around plants.
  • Colorado Potato Beetles: These beetles lay yellow-orange eggs and chew holes in leaves. Pick them off by hand, use straw mulch, and use row covers. Diatomaceous earth or organic pesticides can help if they're a big problem.
  • Flea Beetles: These tiny black bugs make many tiny holes in leaves. Use row covers, add mulch, or bring in native plants to attract helpful insects.
  • Potato Scab: This most common potato disease is caused by bacteria and makes brown, rough spots on potatoes. Choose scab-resistant varieties, keep the soil slightly acidic, and use sulfur on seed potatoes before planting.
  • Early Blight: This virus makes dark spots on leaves and may kill them. Destroy infected plants, choose types of potatoes that resist it, keep the soil healthy, and make sure air can circulate around the plants.
  • Late Blight: This is another kind of blight caused by insects. It makes spots on leaves that turn brown, and a fuzzy growth appears underneath. Destroy infected plants, choose resistant potatoes, make sure air can circulate, and don't water from above.

Rotate crops annually, practice good sanitation, and consider using disease-resistant potato varieties. Regularly check your plants for any signs of illness and promptly address any issues that may arise.

Wrap Up

There you have it: a comprehensive guide to growing potatoes. From selecting the right spot and soil, choosing the best seed potatoes, and providing proper care throughout the growing season to harvesting and storing your crop, this guide has covered everything you need to know.

Follow these steps, and you can easily grow tasty potatoes full of nutrition and flavor. Whether you're growing them in a garden or containers, with patience and care, you'll have your own delicious potatoes to enjoy throughout the season. Happy planting!